I have heard since childhood that Bangladesh was a traditional cloth called Muslin. Which are the most amazing and popular in the whole world. But I cannot see it in my life but it was in my country. Now Bangladesh gov’t again take to decision produce the Muslin cloth and export the international market. Which is a matter of great pride for us. It was famous mainly because it is made of extremely thin and fin yarn. How much thin and how comfortable it was we know in this article. Bangladesh. The Bangladesh government has taken various steps to go back to production with ultra-fine fabrics. Finally success in our researcher.
What Is Muslin:
Muslin was the name of a legendary cloth made of cotton, fit for emperors, which used to be made way back in the past. Muslin from Dacca had been the finest, from where it used to be shipped to the far corners of the world.
Once upon a time, Dhakai muslin was famous worldwide as the finest fabric of all. To highlight its quality, it is often said an entire sari of muslin would have fit into a matchbox.
History of Muslin:
Many years before muslin was known as Mulmul or Malmal. It was a handwoven fabric made with fines handspun yarns. There were Muslin qualities with a 2425 thread count which are questionable even with advanced technology. Some notable qualities of muslin were Mulmul Khas or Kings Muslins, Eksuti Malmal, and Alibal Malmal, etc.
The yarn count, weights and textures, thread count, origin, and particular use were the main criteria to differentiate them from each other. Muslin was one of the legendary clothes of East India. These were made with locally grown cotton called “Phuti karpas” (Gossypium arboreum var. neglect). The cotton was grown alongside the river banks of Brahmaputra. Some notable varieties were as following. Muslin from eastern parts of ancient India was praised in the international market as “woven wind” and “wonder gossamer”, and earned a great price.
In 1298 CE, Marco Polo described the cloth in his book The Travels. He said it was made in Mosul, Iraq. The 16th-century English traveler Ralph Fitch lauded the muslin he saw in Sonargaon. During the 17th and 18th centuries, Mughal Bengal emerged as the foremost muslin exporter in the world, with Mughal Dhaka as the capital of the worldwide muslin trade. It became highly popular in 18th-century France and eventually spread across much of the Western world.
The muslin-making process is very difficult but the expert of Muslin does this work properly. All the manufacturing processes were manual, manufacturing involved many artisans for yam spinning and weaving activities. But the leading role lay with the material and weaving.
Ginning: To removing trash and clean and combing the fiber and making them parallel ready to spinning a boiler (upper jaw of a catfish) was used.
Spinning and Weaving: For extra humidity, they used to weave during the rainy season for elasticity in the yarns and to avoid breakages. The process was so sluggish that it could take over five months to weave one piece of muslin
How made fabric Muslin:
Muslin, plain-oven cotton fabric made in various weights. The better qualities of muslin are fine and smooth in texture and woven from even spoon warps and wefts, or fillings. They are given a soft finish, bleached or piece-dyed, and are sometimes patterned in the loom or printed.
Success History & How It’s Comback Again?
Bangladesh research team after six years first time success to rebirth muslin cloth. In quality and meaning, this new muslin is just like the traditional Dhaka muslin cloth, a whole sari melts through the ring. The GI rights of Dhaka Muslin have already been approved. In this age of mechanics, new muslin has been woven using 500 counts of yarn cut by weavers, and cloth has also been woven by handloom weaving. The story behind Muslin’s rebirth is another exciting story.
The research team has already visited the Victoria and Albert Museum in the UK that has a collection of over 300 muslin clothing. The museum not only helped the Bangladeshi researchers but also assured them that they will sign a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) to support their research if needed.
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Muslin is tricky to make since it requires specific fibers and the use of small hands for weaving, Monzur said, adding: “If we can find the cotton, we will need to do a DNA profiling that might cost around Tk4 crore. “We have the support for this study, but the funding has not been approved yet which is why we cannot move forward with our research.”Researchers said they will try both the old method of weaving muslin by hand and try and use a machine to achieve the same result.
The success of weaving muslin depends 50% on the cotton and 50% on the weaver. It requires both dry and wet seasons for production.“The muslin will not shrink in water. It is a stronger fabric. A high-quality weaving muslin requires nimble fingers which young girls have. As we do not have any expert weavers left, we are training weavers under this project”, said Mustafizur. Despite the fact that India failed to revive muslin after the formation of a commission in 1956, the researchers remain hopeful. Mustafizur said: “We hope it is possible. We will require chemicals, salaries for scientists, technical training, use of new devices, in addition to hosting trials in multiple locations. All of this is not possible with the block fund allocated to us. We will need more funds soon and we require the ECNEC approval as soon as possible.”
There are some doubts on whether the team of researchers will be able to find the muslin cotton in Bangladesh anymore. In 2016 February, a month-long Muslin Festival was held at the National Museum co-organized by Drik’s Bengal muslin team and Aarong. Saiful Islam, CEO of Bengal muslin, said he was not very optimistic about this team of researchers being able to find the exact strain of muslin cotton in Bangladesh anymore.
“We have been researching since 2014. We were unable to find the exact strain of muslin cotton in Bangladesh.